Catores
Classic climbs

Spigolo del Pollice – A dream climb on Cinque Dita

Steep alpine climbing in the Sassolungo Group – A great classic of the Dolomites

Viewed from the Sella Pass, Five Fingers Peak is one of the most imposing mountains, as its silhouette bears a striking resemblance to a human hand. On the far right, a prominent tower stands out, known in Ladin as "Polësc," which translates to "Thumb." The famous climbing route "Spigolo del Pollice" follows this impressive rock edge.

The route is characterized by excellent rock quality and moderate climbing that increases in exposure towards the top. For the most part, you climb directly along the edge, and you’ll be amazed at how steep a grade IV route can feel. At the highest point, you can marvel at the Langkofel massif with all its spires and jagged peaks. From the summit, steep rappels lead back down to the Toni Demetz Hut in the Forcella Sassolungo.

Experience this wonderful tour in the heart of the Langkofel Group accompanied by a local mountain guide from the Catores Alpine School.

Level:
Duration:
1 day
Area:
Sassolungo Group
Participants:
1-2
Difficulty:
IV
Length:
250 m
Date:
daily on request
Price:
from 450 €
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Price details:

1 person: €450
2 people: €560

Program:

The route was first climbed in the summer of 1917 by Gustav Jahn, Merlet, and Huter. Thanks to the gondola lift, it is accessible from the Sella Pass with virtually no approach. If you wish to combine the climb with an overnight stay, the Toni Demetz Hut is the perfect base. For those who prefer to hike up, the Forcella can be reached from the Sella Pass in about 1.5 hours.

The climb begins directly at the Forcella del Sassolungo and consists of eight pitches on exceptionally grippy rock (up to grade IV), covering 250 meters of climbing to the summit. The descent involves three rappels into the "Thumb Notch", from where you continue down the normal route via further rappels and scrambling until you reach the Forcella Sassolungo again.

For the ambitious a full traverse is an excellent option: from the Thumb Notch, continue climbing along the upper section of the normal route to the main summit of Five Fingers Peak (2,996 m).

Similar Climbing Tours:

  • Spigolo Maria – Sass Pordoi
  • Spigolo Ovest – Torre Glück
  • Spigolo Sud-Est – Piccola Fermeda
  • Via Dibona – Sass de Mesdì
  • Spigolo Sud-Est – Odla de Cisles (Odle)
Services:
  • Guided by a certified IFMGA mountain guide
  • Rental of technical equipment (harness, helmet and climbing shoes)
  • Lift ticket not included
 
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